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The University of Southampton
Winchester School of Art

Dr  Jo Turney PhD, MA, FHEA

Associate Professor of Fashion

Dr  Jo Turney's photo

Jo Turney is a Design Historian with an interest in everyday dress and textile objects and practices, and particularly the praxis at which the ordinary becomes extraordinary.

“I hate slick and pretty things. I prefer mistakes and accidents. Which is why I like things like cuts and bruises - they're like little flowers. I've always said that if you have a name for something, like 'cut' or 'bruise,' people will automatically be disturbed by it. But when you see the same thing in nature, and you don't know what it is, it can be very beautiful.” ― David Lynch 

“I hate slick and pretty things. I prefer mistakes and accidents. Which is why I like things like cuts and bruises - they're like little flowers. I've always said that if you have a name for something, like 'cut' or 'bruise,' people will automatically be disturbed by it. But when you see the same thing in nature, and you don't know what it is, it can be very beautiful.” ― David Lynch

Her research considers everyday practices in a variety of ways, from the making and meanings of textiles (The Culture of Knitting, Berg, [2009]), through to their consumption, display and use (Floral Frocks, Antique Collector’s Club, [2007] and Images in Time, Wunderkammer [2011]). She is particularly interested in the ways in which users/wearers and society[ies] respond to and re-appropriate clothing and this is explored by her research surrounding women’s clothing in sexual assault court cases, and also menswear, and its relation to deviant behaviour, from the sub-cultural 1980s Casuals to today’s ‘hoodies’ and tracksuit wearing youth (Fashion and Crime, Bloomsbury [2018]). Her research also encompasses analyses of garments hitherto marginalised from Dress History, such as the cardigan, and, the white singlet or ‘wife beater’ vest.

Research interests

Her research is predominantly situated in the contemporary, focussing on the 1970s as a pivotal period in social and design experimentation, innovation and change. She is currently writing a sole authored book ‘In Private’ (Bloomsbury, 2021) which considers the cultural significance of 1970s domestic interior design in the UK & USA, and the ways in which the public informed the private and vice versa as a means of expressing and initiating socio-cultural change.

She is also working on a Covid 19 project that considers the impact of everyday creativity, from making to getting dressed, as a means for self-esteem and personal empowerment.

Future projects include investigations into anti-social crafts, such as the Manson Family embroideries, and a social history of 1970s fashion (Intellect).

She is the founder and Co-editor of the SCOPUS registered journal Clothing Cultures (Intellect), editorial board member of Textile: the journal of cloth and culture, and is a member of the advisory board for the Dress and Body Association. She is a founding member of the Fashion and Crime network.

Projects:

In Private: Domestic Interior Design in the 1970s in the UK & USA (Bloomsbury, 2021)

The Quarantine Wardrobe, project with the Higher School of Economics, Moscow, Russia.

Book Chapter: ‘[Aurelio] Zen (BBC, 2011) and the Art of Suave; the detective, sexy dressing and the tourist gaze’ for Franklin, A (ed) Identity Parade: Dressing the Detective (Bloomsbury, forthcoming).

Research Groups

iPIC

Affiliate research groups

Winchester Luxury Research Group, Careers, Critical Practices

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Creative Media and Artefacts

Dr Jo Turney
WSA/1029

Room Number: 63F/1027

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