The University of Southampton

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Professor Maria Hayward PhD, PGDip Textile conservation, BA

Professor of Early Modern History, PGR Coordinator, semester 2

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Professor Maria Hayward is a Professor of Early Modern History at the University of Southampton.

Maria Hayward graduated with a history degree before undertaking the post graduate diploma in textile conservation at the Textile Conservation Centre (TCC), Hampton Court Palace. After working as a conservator and completing a PhD in History at the London School of Economics, she worked at the TCC, both at Hampton Court and after it joined the University of Southampton in 1999. During this time she was Head of Studies and Research and Director of the Arts and Humanities Research Council Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies (2004-07). In 2004 she was elected as a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries. In 2008 she transferred to History. Her publications include The 1542 Inventory of Whitehall: The Palace and Its Keeper (2004), Tapestry Conservation: Principles and Practice, edited with Frances Lennard (2005), Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII (2007), Rich Apparel: Clothing and the Law in Henry VIII's England (2009), and The 1547 Inventory of King Henry VIII: Volume 2: Textiles and Dress, edited with Philip Ward (2012).

Research

Publications

Teaching

Contact

Research interests

Tudor and Stuart material culture especially textiles and clothing. This includes the changing style of garments and accessories, their cut and construction and the networks of suppliers and makers involved in their production. Other research interests include the links between the court at Westminster and the city of London, early modern gift giving, early modern jewellery and jewellers, and what people wore to their executions.

Current research projects
I am working on a book on the clothing of the Stuart kings, in terms of the types of garments being worn and the craftsmen who made them. This has resulted in work on the furnishing of Charles II's apartments and his yachts.

Other interests include the use of perfume at the Tudor and Stuart courts.

Articles

Hayward, M. (2016). ‘We should dress us fairly for our end’: The significance of the clothing worn at elite executions in England in the long sixteenth-century’. History, 101(345), 222-245. DOI: 10.1111/1468-229X.12229
Hayward, M. (2016). In the eye of the beholder: 'Seeing' textiles in the early modern interior. Textile History, 47(1), 27-42. DOI: 10.1080/00404969.2016.1144701
Hayward, M. (2015). Dressed in blue: the impact of woad on English clothing c. 1350-1660. Costume, 49(2), 168-185.
Hayward, M. (2011). Mary Tudor: pearls for a princess, pearls for a queen. Jewellery History Today, 12, 3-4.
Hayward, M. A. (2011). Quelle influence de la mode francaise a la cour d'Angleterre au XVI siecle? Revue de l’Art, 174(4), 51-56.
Hawkyard, A., & Hayward, M. (2010). The Dressing and Trimming of the Parliament Chamber, 1509–58. Parliamentary History, 29(part 2), 229-237.
Hayward, M. (2010). The 'Empresse of Flowers': the significance of floral imagery in two portraits of Elizabeth I at Jesus College, Oxford. Costume, 44(1), 20-27. DOI: 10.1179/174963010x12662396505608
Hayward, M. A. (2005). Gift giving at the court of Henry VIII: the 1539 New Year's gift roll in context. The Antiquaries Journal, 85, 125-175.
Hayward, M. A. (2005). Symbols of majesty: cloths of estate at the court of Henry VIII. Furniture History, 41, 1-11.
Hayward, M. A. (2004). Review of Rangstrom, L. 'Lions of Fashion: male fashion of the 16th, 17th, 18th centuries' Stockholm: Livrustkammaren, 2002, pp.400. Costume, 38, 154-156.
Hayward, M. (2002). Reflections on gender and status distinctions: an analysis of the Liturgical Textiles Record in mid-sixteenth-century London. Gender & History, 14(3), 403-425. DOI: 10.1111/1468-0424.00275
Hayward, M. (2002). The 1542 inventory of the palace of Westminster. History Today, 52(11), 7-8.
Hayward, M. (2002). The 1542 inventory of the palace of Westminster. History Today, 52(11), 7-8.
Hayward, M. (2002). The sign of some degree?: the social, financial and sartorial significance of male headwear at the courts of Henry VIII and Edward VI. Costume, 36, 1-17.
Hayward, M. A., Mitchell, D., Parker, K., & Gaimster, D. (2002). Tudor silver-gilt dress-hooks: a new class of treasure find in England. The Antiquaries Journal, 82(there is no iss), 157-196.
Hayward, M. (2000). William Green: coffer-maker to Henry VIII, Edward VI and Mary I. Furniture History, 36, 1-13.
Hayward, M. (1999). The packing and storage of Oxford silver. The Silver Society Journal, 11, 245-251.
Hayward, M. (1998). Repositories of splendour: Henry VIII's wardrobes of the Robes and Beds. Textile History, 29(2), 134-156. DOI: 10.1179/004049698793710742
Hayward, M. (1997). The packing and transportation of the possessions of Henry VIII, with particular reference to the 1547 inventory. Costume, 31(1), 8-15. DOI: 10.1179/cos.1997.31.1.8
Hayward, M. (1996). Luxury or magnificence? Dress at the court of Henry VIII. Costume, 30(1), 37-46. DOI: 10.1179/cos.1996.30.1.37

Books

Rublack, U., Hayward, M., & Tiramani, J. (Eds.) (2015). The first book of fashion: the book of clothes of Mattaeus and Veit Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg. London, GB: Bloomsbury.
Hayward, M. (2012). The Great Wardrobe Accounts of Henry VII and Henry VIII. (London Record Society). London, GB: London Record Society.
Hayward, M. A., & Ward, P. (Eds.) (2012). The inventory of King Henry VIII: Volume 2 textiles and dress. (The Inventory of King Henry VIII; No. 2). Turnhout, BE: Harvey Miller for the Society of Antiquaries of London.
Hayward, M. A. (2009). Rich Apparel: Clothing and the Law Henry VIII's England. Aldershot, UK: Ashgate.
Hayward, M. (2007). Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII. Leeds, UK: Maney.
Rogerson, C., Hayward, M. (Ed.), & Kramer, E. (Ed.) (2007). Understanding the full story: acknowledging intimate interactions of textiles and text as both help and hindrance for preservation. (3rd Annual Conference of the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies). London, UK: Archetype Publications.
Lennard, F., & Hayward, M. (Eds.) (2006). Tapestry Conservation: Principles and Practice. (Butterworth-Heinemann Series in Conservation and Museology). Oxford, UK: Elsevier.
Hayward, M. A. (2004). The 1542 Inventory of Whitehall: the palace and its keeper [volumes 1 & 2]. London, UK: Illuminata Publishers for The Society of Antiquaries of London.

Book Chapters

Hayward, M. (2017). Clothing. In C. Richardson, T. Hamling, & D. Gaimster (Eds.), The Routledge Handbook of Material Culture in Early Modern Europe (pp. 172-184). (Routledge History Handbooks). London and New York : Routledge.
Hayward, M. (2017). Textiles. In E. Currie (Ed.), A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion: In the Renaissance (1450-1650) (Vol. 3, pp. 19-35). (The Cultural History Series). London and New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
Hayward, M. (2016). Fashionable fiction: The significance of costumes in The Tudors. In W. Robison (Ed.), History, Fiction and The Tudors: Sex, Politics, Power and Artisitic License in the Showtime Television Series (pp. 293-306). [Chapter 19] (Queenship and Power). New York: Palgrave Macmillan.
Hayward, M. (2016). Textiles and clothing construction. In B. R. Smith (Ed.), The Cambridge Shakespeare Encyclopaedia, Vol I: Shakespeare's World Cambridge, GB: Cambridge University Press.
Hayward, M. (2015). Dressing the Tudor monarchs: 16th century clothing and 19th century costume. In C. Bolland, & C. Maisonneuve (Eds.), Les Tudors (pp. 139-153). Paris, FR: Les éditions Rmn-Grand Palais.
Hayward, M. (2015). The collar of Esses, the cap of maintenance, the Lord Mayor’s robes. In H. Bowen (Ed.), Lord Mayor’s Show 800 Year: 1215-2015 (pp. 70-77). Colchester, GB: Third Millenium.
Hayward, M. (2015). The compass of a lie: royal clothing at court and in the plays of Shakespeare, 1598-1613. In P. Lennox, & B. Mirabella (Eds.), Shakespeare and Costume (pp. 23-46). London, GB: Bloomsbury.
Hayward, M. (2015). 'We have better materials for clothes, they, better taylors': The significance of La Mode at the courts of Charles II and James II. In T. Claydon, & C-E. Levillain (Eds.), Louis XIV: Outside In: Reactions and Responses to the Sun King Beyond France (pp. 57-75). (Politics and Culture in Europe, 1650-1750). Farnham, GB: Ashgate.
Hayward, M. (2014). Spanish Princess or Queen of England? The Image, Identity and Influence of Catherine of Aragon at the Courts of Henry VII and Henry VIII. In J. L. Colomer, & A. Descalzo (Eds.), Vestir a la española en las cortes europeas (siglos XVI y XVII) / Dressing the Spanish in the European courts (XVI and XVII centuries). 2 vols Madrid, ES: Centro de Estudios Europa Hispanica.
Hayward, M. (2013). Rich Pickings: Henry VIII’s use of confiscation and its significance for the development of the royal collection. In T. Betteridge, & S. Lipscomb (Eds.), Henry VIII and the Court (pp. 2-46). Farnham, GB: Ashgate.
Hayward, M. (2012). Beaver; Body garments; Budge; Buskins; Cat; Cloak; Codpiece; Coney; Cote; Doublet; Ermine; Fox; Fur; Garter; Gloves; Great Wardrobe; Hose; Lamb; Laws and prohibitions; Lettice; Liturgical textiles post 1100; Mantle, Marten; Mediterranean trade post 1100; Miniver; Official dress; Pall; Pampillion; Poots; Portraits; Pouch; Purse; Rothwell Jack; Sable; Shears; Squirrel; Squirrel robe; Stranling; Tent makers; Tunic. In G. Owen-Crocker, E. Coatsworth, & M. Hayward (Eds.), Encyclopaedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles 450-1450 Brill.
Hayward, M. A. (2012). Dressed to rule: the clothes and accessories of Henry VIII. In M. A. Hayward, & P. Ward (Eds.), The Inventory of King Henry VIII Turnhout, BE: Harvey Miller.
Hayward, M. (2012). Dressing Charles II: the king’s clothing choices 1660-1685. In I. Paresys (Ed.), Cultures matérielles, cultures visuelles du costume dans les cours européennes (pp. 159-176). Lille, Dutch: ‘Institut de recherche historique du Septentrion’ (university of Lille/CNRS) and the Research Centre of the Versailles Palace.
Hayward, M. (2012). Going Dutch? How far did Charles II’s exile in the Netherlands shape his wardrobe, 1646-1665? In A. Jolly, & J. Pietsch (Eds.), Netherlandish Fashion in the Seventeenth Century (pp. 119-128). Bern, CH: Abegg-Stiftung.
Hayward, M. (2011). A shadow of a former self: analysis of an early 17th-century boy's doublet from Abingdon. In C. Richardson, & T. Hamling (Eds.), Everyday Objects: Medieval and Early Modern Material Culture and its Meanings. (pp. 107-118). Farnham: Ashgate.
Hayward, M. (2011). Continuity or change? The influence of the liturgical year on the wardrobe of Henry VIII. In R. Schorta, & R. C. Schwinges (Eds.), Fashion and Clothing in Late Medieval Europe/Mode und Kleidung im Europa des späten Mittelalters (pp. 155-167). Riggisberg, Switzerland; Basel, Switzerland: Abegg-Stiftung; Schwabe.
Hayward, M. (2010). Canvas supports and the King's Painters: an analysis of the London linen trade, 1485-1642. In J. Kirby, S. Nash, & J. Cannon (Eds.), European Trade in Painters' Materials to 1700 (pp. 375-385). London, GB: Archetype.
Hayward, M. (2010). Dressed to impress. In A. Whitelock, & A. Hunt (Eds.), Tudor Queenship: The Reigns of Mary and Elizabeth (pp. 81-94). (Queenship and Power). Basingstoke, GB: Palgrave Macmillan.
Hayward, M. (2010). Introduction. Textiles and dress at the court of Henry VIII. In M. Hayward, & P. Ward (Eds.), The Inventory of King Henry VIII Turnhout, BE: Harvey Miller.
Hayward, M. A. (2010). Male headwear at the courts of Henry VIII and Edward VI. In G. Riello, & P. McNeil (Eds.), The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives (pp. 114-131). Abingdon, GB: Routledge.
Hayward, M. A. (2010). Temporary magnificence: the offices of the tents and revels in the 1547 inventory. In M. A. Hayward, & P. Ward (Eds.), The Inventory of King Henry VIII Turnhout, BE: Harvey Miller.
Hayward, M. (2010). The London linen trade, 1509–1641, and the use of linen by painters in royal service. In J. Kirby, S. Nash, & J. Cannon (Eds.), Trade in Artists' Materials: Markets and Commerce in Europe to 1700 (pp. 375-385). London: Archetype.
Hayward, M. (2009). Dress and fashion at Henry's court. In G. Rimer, T. Richardson, & J. P. D. Cooper (Eds.), Henry VIII: Arms and the Man 1509-2009 (pp. 89-97). Leeds, UK: Royal Armouries.
Hayward, M. (2009). Dress at Henry VIII's Court. In G. Rimer (Ed.), Henry VIII: Dressed to Kill (pp. 88-97). Leeds, GB: The Royal Armouries.
Hayward, M. A. (2007). Robert Acton. In Oxford Dictionary of National Biography Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Hayward, M. (2007). Transporting royal treasures: a case study from the court of Henry VIII. In E. Vavra, & T. Kuhtreiber (Eds.), Managing Treasure and Hoards/Vom Umgang mit Schatzen, Institut fur Realdenkende des Mittelalters und der Frühen Neuzeit (pp. 307-325). Krems an der Donau, AT: Austrian Academy of Sciences.
Hayward, M. (2007). Unlocking one facet of Henry VIII's wardrobe: an investigation of the base. In M. Hayward, & E. Kramer (Eds.), Textiles and Text: Re-Establishing the Links Between Archival and Object-Based Research (pp. 45-51). London, GB: Archetype Publications.
Hayward, M. A. (2006). Fit for a king? Maintaining the early Tudor tapestry collection. In F. J. Lennard, & M. A. Hayward (Eds.), Tapestry Conservation: Principles and Practice (pp. 13-19). (Butterworth-Heinemann Series in Conservation and Museology). Oxford, UK: Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann.
Hayward, M. A. (2006). John Skut. In Oxford Dictionary of National Biography Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Hayward, M. A., & Marko, K. (2006). The truth will out: the value of tapestry documentation. In F. J. Lennard, & M. A. Hayward (Eds.), Tapestry Conservation: Principles and Practice (pp. 39-47). (Butterworth-Heinemann Series in Conservation and Museology). Oxford, UK: Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann.
Hayward, M. A. (2004). Fashion, finance, foreign politics and the wardrobe of Henry VIII. In C. Richardson (Ed.), Clothing Culture, 1350-1650 (pp. 165-178). (History of Retailing and Consumption). Aldershot, UK: Ashgate Publishing.
Hayward, M. A. (2003). Reflections on gender and status distinctions: an analysis of the liturgical textiles recorded in mid-sixteenth century London. In B. Burman, & C. Turbin (Eds.), Material strategies: dress and gender in historical perspective (pp. 33-35). Oxford, UK: Blackwell Publishing.
Hayward, M. A. (2001). Seat furniture at the court of Henry VIII: a study of the evidence. In K. Gill, & D. D. M. Eastop (Eds.), Upholstery conservation: principles and practice (pp. 115-132). Butterworth-Heinemann.
Hayward, M. (2000). Flags (ii) Textiles. In C. S. Knighton, & D. M. Loades (Eds.), The Anthony Roll of Henry VIII's Navy (pp. 31-33). Occasional Publications of the Navy Records Society, 2.
Hayward, M. (1996). Appendix 2: Report on the velvet covered box containing the bones. In M. W. Greenslade (Ed.), Saint Chad of Birmingham (pp. 26-28). Birmingham, GB: Archdiocese of Birmingham Historical Commission Publication No. 10.

Conferences

Eagan, J., & Hayward, M. A. (2005). A textile binding once in the library of Henry VIII: technical examination and conservation. In G. Fellows-Jensen, & P. Springborg (Eds.), Care and Conservation of Manuscripts: Proceedings of the Eighth International Seminar held at the University of Copenhagen 16-17 October 2003 (pp. 123-139). Copenhagen, Denmark: Museum Tusculanum Press.
Hayward, M. A. (2004). A symbol of transition?: The role of the dress in defining the stages of boyhood for the sons of Henry VIII. Paper presented at Clothing for Children; the Medieval Dress and Textile Society, .
Hayward, M. A. (2004). Signs of a spiritual life? An analysis of the possessions and houses of the Black, White, Grey and Austin Friars in mid-sixteenth century England. Paper presented at Domestic and Institutional Interiors in Early Modern Europe, .
Hayward, M. A. (2004). Spanish Princess of Queen of England?: The image and identity of Catherine of Aragon. Paper presented at Textile Cultures: Spain and England since 1500. Centre for the History of Textiles and Dress and the Conservation Centre, .
Hayward, M., & Pool, M. (Ed.) (2004). The AHRB Research Centre for textile conservation and textile studies: exciting opportunities. 59-67. Paper presented at Textielonderzoek, Textielonderzoekers en Faciliteiten', Textieldag Donderdag, Amsterdam, Stichting Textielcommissie Nederland, .
Hayward, M. A. (2004). Transporting royal treasures: a case study from the court of Henry VIII. Paper presented at Managing Treasure and Hoards, .
Hayward, M., Wickens, J., & Vuori, J. (Ed.) (2003). Contract for eternity: preserving a hearse cloth made in 1505 for Henry VII (b. 1455 - d. 1509). 196-197. Paper presented at Textiles in the Tale: The Conservation of Flags and Other Symbolic Textiles: Preprints of the North American Textile Conservation Conference, 2003, .
Hayward, M. A., & Wickens, J. D. J. (2003). Contract for eternity: preserving a hearse cloth made in 1505 for Henry VII (b.1455 - d.1509). In J. Vuori (Ed.), Textiles in the Tale: The Conservation of Flags and Other Symbolic Textiles (Preprints of the North American Textile Conservation Conference, 2003) (pp. 196-197). New York, USA: Albany.
Hayward, M. (2003). Written text and surviving textiles: English pre-reformation textiles. Paper presented at The Society of Antiquaries, .
Hayward, M., & French, A. (Ed.) (1990). The conservation of a nineteenth century chair. 21-29. Paper presented at Conservation of Furnishing Textiles, Edinburgh, Scottish Society for Conservation and Restoration, .

Henry VIII: Reputation and Reality (HIST1094) course leader
Plague, Fire and Popish Plots: The Worlds of Charles II (HIST2059) course leader
Creating an imperial image: Augustus (HIST2075) course leader
Alternative Histories: History and Literature (HIST3122) - co-teacher
Fashioning the Tudor Court (Special Subject - HIST3126, 3127) course leader
English Renaissance Textiles and Dress (MA Option CMRC6005) course leader

Areas where I can offer postgraduate supervision
Medieval and early modern textiles and clothing, including trade and production
The Tudor and Stuart court culture

Professor Maria Hayward
Building 65 Faculty of Arts and Humanities University of Southampton Avenue Campus Highfield Southampton SO17 1BF United Kingdom

Room Number:65/2059

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